In every little town and it's simple things hide some secrets
I grew up in Petropolis, a pretty mountain town in Brasil. It has a tropical but temperate climate, with lots of rainforests. For years, I've been traveling back here to visit my parents. But on our way back from the airport, we pass through the most interesting intersection called "duas pontes, " which simply means two bridges. It's a four-way stop where two streets have bridges, hence the name "duas pontes." So far, so good. But here's where my untold story ends and begins. This intersection is a perfect cultural analogy for life in Brasil.
This intersection has a long history of car crashes. One street is a road with lots of traffic coming from Rio de Janeiro, and the other is just a local street. To deal with the heavy traffic, they first used simple stop signs. But let me explain how Brasilians understand stop signs.
In the US, stop means STOP. But in Brasil a stop sign usually does not mean much. At best, it is a reminder that there is an intersection, and you should know if there are incoming cars. Most of the time, no one even notices them. They are not in any way like a red light that, if not respected, could accrue heavy fines. For obvious reasons, the stop signs didn't work at all.
The next logical thing to do was to install traffic lights. People do know to stop at a red light, but that didn't work either. I'm not completely sure why they didn't work, but I was told that there were only two traffic lights instead of four. I think at the time, they didn't have the technology to implement a four-way stop traffic light system that worked. So, the problem was only half solved. After a series of accidents and general discontent, they scrapped the traffic lights too.
The next logical step was to employ a traffic cop. The poor devil would try to conduct the unruly traffic, but what would be the best technique? Everything in Brazil works in mysterious ways, never following Cartesian logic. And I'm sure there was a meeting about that. The meeting started well, and soon, the subject turned to the latest soccer match, followed by commentaries on how absolutely gorgeous the new secretary was, and that was it. So, Brasilians do what they always do—they improvise.
So, how the traffic was directed was pretty much at the cop's discretion. Buses and trucks had the right of way because of their size. But the cop's arbitration was sometimes a motive for quarrels, disputes, and some fist fights. And the string of crashes continued.
Finally, the city decided to do away with everything. Screw it! You guys deal with it, and so they did. No more stop signs, stop lights, or cops. Just leave it to the drivers' improvisational skills. And the result? It worked like a charm.
Today, there were a few car crashes at the Duas Pontes intersection. You go through this intersection in record time, and everybody gets their chance. It is almost like a telepathic experience. But not everyone can deal with it. It is definitely not for beginners. You have to understand how it works, but you also have to read the other drivers to see who should go first. You can't necessarily wait for your turn. You must go, and if another car also decides to go, there will be an instant vibe in the air, and the other will concede their turn based on these vibes. Large buses and trucks always win; I wonder why.
Duas Pontes intersection also has a personality of it's own. Somedays are peaceful and easy, other days are chaotic and everyone is mad. I sometimes avoid going there because I don't feel up to it. You have to have an attitude. Not too aggressive, not too shy. It has to be Just right. It is a Zen experience. See for yourself.
Living in Brasil is just like the Duas Pontes place. Not for beginners. Nothing works powered by strict rules, and in some aspects, there is absolutely no rhyme or reason. Anything can happen at any time, and you can't be asleep. You have to be engaged and think on your feet.
I think is somewhat extraordinary that this chaotic solution actually works better than the stop lights, stop signs or the traffic cop. Just amazes me how smooth it is.
I tell people how I feel about this fantastic intersection, but they don't understand what I mean. For them, Duas Pontes is just how things are, and they don't have much to say or to think about. They are rushing down the street to their destination and have better things to do.
I tell them that if they're that good at surviving the crossing, then how many other things will they be able to do? They are not impressed. They can't see the trees in the forest because they have been in it their whole lives.
I sometimes say that it would be a lot easier if there were some proper traffic lights and there would be no stress. But no one pays attention to what I say. Life here moves quickly, and things look like they will never change. No one can envision life in any other way.
Human nature can organically process the world, which is much more how humans are meant to exist. Organization and order are definitely much less stressful and are part of this civilized world. But as we become more civilized, rational, and organized, we also become less human, one could argue.
As I go back to the United States, I notice the sharp contrast between my Brasil improvisational culture and the world of supreme technology and cartesian precision. Yes, it works a lot better, but no one notices you as you become part of the big machine and, in a sense, become less human, and our imperfections don't fit in in this logical world.
In the US, we live in a perfect environment, with self-chequing kiosks and perfectly calculated engineering. Unlike Brasil, no one speaks to you because there is no longer a need for that. Everything is supposed to work perfectly, so you don't have to ask anyone.
But who has lived a better life as one leaves this world? The ones who interacted with others in need of some clarification about simple things, some instruction, or simply discuss and lament how everything is so fucked up in this country. Or the man who accomplished all his objectives and everything worked perfectly but had no one to interact with?
Great post!
Great post!